Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Sturgis I
Sturgis - we came, we saw, we rode, and it was good. Things got off to a rocky start, when my bike squirmed free of its trailer restraints, made contact with the rear door, and put a dent in the rear fender. Huge bummer and I was a far beyond disappointed, but what was done was done, and the only choice we had was to get on with having a good time.
A few thoughts on Sturgis, South Dakota. The place is tiny, something like 7,000 people live here full-time, and the name of nearly every shop, store, bar, and building is inspired directly, or as a reference to, some aspect of motorcycling. When there is not a really going on, this has to be a very quiet, very slow going place…which is an obvious part of its appeal. The Dakotas in general are very proud of their rugged, “Old West” heritage, to the point of being obsessed. Again, this is part of the appeal.
The city itself is a working class suburb of Rapid City, the nearest major city at roughly 30 miles Southwest via I-90. It has one main road, Main Street, and a parallel street called Lazelle, which serve as the main thoroughfares and gathering places for the rally’s partygoers and vendors. Every nook and cranny is filled with T-shirt, accessories, parts, and trinket resellers, peddling official and unofficial merch to the masses of leather clad motorcyclists mulling around the streets. Beyond the main rally area, there is a small residential district which serves as a shortcut and/or escape from the crawling, stop-start traffic Main Street’s mobs create.
After spending a week there, I have to say that the best thing about the city is its close proximity to some fantastic riding spots. To the South is Custer State Park, Mount Rushmore, and the Chief Crazy Horse monument. To the North Spearfish Creek Canyon, and to the East, the South Dakota Badlands. We made every destination but Spearfish Creek Canyon – we just ran out of time – and the best destination, hands down, was the Custer State Park Wildlife Loop, which we followed with a run up Iron Mountain Road, before heading back through Rapid City and eventually Sturgis. No bullshit, this was the greatest day of riding I have ever experienced.
The Mount Rushmore National Memorial is the most beautiful national monument I have ever seen(it may be the only national monument I have ever seen, but my memory isn’t what it used to be, so I’m leaving the possibilities open). The park itself is immaculate, and the busts of Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln can be seen from almost anywhere within the park. Even the roads leading into the monument are lined with beautiful rock formations and woodlands, so the entire place has a very clean, connected feel. This is the kind of place I would take children someday. Maybe I will have to borrow my brother’s daughters for a fly-in trip someday.
Rushmore is only about 4 miles North of a monument in progress to Native American war chief Crazy Horse. Crazy Horse was one of the last Lakota Indian chiefs to resist Union pressure for capitulation and eventual imprisonment on one of the nation’s Indian reservations. He eventually agreed to peace talks, but was murdered by a Union soldier before any agreement could be reached. Another proud moment for early America’s white citizens.
Crazy Horse became a legend to the Lakota and it was decided that he should honored, along with all of the Lakota (and larger Sioux Nation) with a massive monument carved into the sacred stone of Dakota’s Black Hills. The monument itself is roughly 10% complete, and has been in progress for nearly 50 years, but what has been done is impressive. Crazy Horse’s head is so large, the entire Mount Rushmore monument could be carved from just a portion of the area which will make up his head dress. The horse he rides will have a head over 200 feet tall. It is an amazing undertaking that is so far incomplete, but still a must-see destination, should you ever find yourself in the area.
Finally, we decided to venture South to Custer State Park, more or less on a whim, and what a brilliant call this proved to be. We started at the West end of the park and took the long way around its “Wildlife Loop”. The scenery was gorgeous, but little of South Dakota’s famed wildlife turned out to be visible from the road. It wasn’t until we were 10 or so miles into the park that we came across an actual herd of buffalo, but when we did, it was an amazing sight. Buffalo are massive creatures, and there is something magical about seeing them meandering across America’s plains. Twice, we had to stop for a herd crossing and photo op. Also making appearances were elk, deer, and even a jackass not of the human variety.
The greatest moment of the ride happened purely by chance. We made a wrong turn, heading left when we intended to go right, and we happened upon Iron Mountain Road. Where the park had been gorgeous, Iron Mountain Road was absolutely phenomenal. This stretch of South Dakota highway winds its way through continual elevation changes, along cliff edges, through tunnels, and down a pair of spiraling “pigtail” bridges, all of which is lined by the Black Hills’ distinctive rock formations and foliage. To say this was he best country I had ever ridden through would be a massive understatement.
So that was Wednesday, suffice it to say, it was a good day. I’ll have to post more when time allows, since this post is already much longer than I originally intended. I haven’t gotten to the innumerable tattoos, boobies, or the dent in my rear fender.
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Isn't it amazing out there? Those spiral roads are insane though! I loved the wildlife loop too. I even went out and pet some wild donkeys. I have so many incredible pics from that trip and we went in 96.
We went hiking somewhere in the Black Mts and there were mountain goats all over the place. And the prairie dog areas were great too. And Rushmore of course is so unbelievable. We went both at night when it was lit up, and in the day. I remember there being this awesome vegetarian restaurant I think in Rapid City.
It's a beautiful place, no doubt about it. We didn't pet any wildlife, but it was a good ride and so far beyond anything you can find here. It's almost enough to get me thinking about moving, but I have a feeling one South Dakota Winter would have me turning right around and coming home. :)